Friday 3rd – Saturday 4th December 2004
The stretch of water off the Bill of Portland is probably the most famous, notoriously dangerous piece of water in Britain. Strong tidal streams meet in an area of shallow undulating seabed, to form the “Portland Race”. This is not an area to visit at the wrong time.
Having never passed the Bill before this was one passage, which we were going to do by the book – quite literally. In order to use the inshore passage there is approximately an hour in every twelve to make a safe trip west. Understandably timing is very important; a departure just after midday was soon planned.
Friday was a perfect day to traverse the inshore passage, with a light northerly breeze and flat sea. The forecast was for a northerly force two to four slowly backing west. A wind in the west would be in our face all across Lyme Bay but we could only hope it held in the north as long as possible.
Our time of departure was totally dictated by the tide. We needed to aim to be at the Bill, seven miles south of Weymouth, at just before high-water Dover. This gives a fair tide down the coast and minimal chance of being pulled back into the tidal race.
However, if the sea looked too rough close inshore there was a Plan B. Leaving the coast early we could passage south of the Shambles Bank, thereby avoiding the worst of the race. As it was, the sea was flat calm and fishing boats were sitting all around the area where the Race should be!
On travelling south from Weymouth we kept very close to the Isle of Portland. In fact close enough to see the expressions on the faces of people on the coastpath! Once within two miles of the Bill the tide started to push hard with us. In little wind we were motoring with the mainsail up just in case.
The miles down to the Bill rapidly past by, with Silverwind racing at seven knots towards the lighthouse. No sooner were we insight of the lighthouse’s distinctive tower, we were out the other side into Lyme Bay. We had made it past the race and been lucky to get a perfect day for the trip.
Once in open water, we set sails and started making our way towards Torbay. It soon became apparent that sailing was a lost cause. The little wind there was, was from the west, which spelt out one thing - a long, slow beat across Lyme Bay. We were too late and the forecast change had already happened. With forty miles to go, it was going to be a long motor to our destination. However, it was a simple passage with Torbay just straight ahead.
We motor sailed holding our course as best as possible, diverting by a few degrees to make minimal use of the sails. As the sun started to set we were about a third of the way across the bay, with the light of Portland looming on our Stern. Now over the course of an hour the lights of Devon started to appear on the bow. First of these lights was the powerful loom of Start Point off to the southwest. Rapidly after Torbay was marked out by the largest concentration of lights to the west. Our target was easily sort out.
We motored on, making our final approach to the bay from just north of the centre. It was now about 9pm. Again in the lee of the land the wind started to die and the sea became a millpond. After entering the bay we quickly made our way up to the entrance of Torquay Marina. In sight of the harbour entrance we removed the sails and motored the last few metres to the pontoon. Torquay is the closest we have been to home in a long time. This was clear as we checked in with the duty manager, who informed us that we had already had a visitor. These visitors came around again on Saturday morning in the form of Eric and Carol from Penzance. By chance they were on holiday in the area. This was to be a busy day. A few hours later I met up with Nikki, an old school friend. After she left for work, I soon had dinner sorted as well. Cathryn had just moved to the area and we spent a few hours catching up. It was strange after months of being away to suddenly meet so many friends!